Krumhuk, a farm in Namibia

2 days

Unplanned time during travel creates ease and freedom, allowing unexpected scenarios to unfold with curiosity rather than frustration. 

Adelaide, Oliver and myself arrived at Windhoek airport yesterday morning. We were met with slowing down - first slowing down after a long hike on the tarmac, then slowing down by the immigration line. This was the reminder that this adventure is happening right now, not necessarily ahead of us. 

As we moved to the counter we were met with two immigration officers who took our passports and forms. The woman on the right inquired, “Where’s the mother?” To keep it simple I answered, “She’s not traveling with us”.  In reality, the mother never travels with us because our kids have 2 fathers. Should I have revealed this reality?

Unexpectedly, the two women said that they needed a letter from the court saying it was okay that I may travel alone with my children. Proudly I decided to calmly announce to all the people in the immigration area, including the people in the queue, that my children have two fathers . This was met with a crooked brow by the officers as if the possibility of having 2 dads could never exist.

Then I clarified with certainty, “I have a husband and I am married to a man”. 

At this point my kids were used to this answer or something of the sort and went along with my relaxed audaciousness. During this exchange I multi-tasked, clicking away on my phone pulling Oliver and Adelaide’s birth certificate up on Google Drive (thank goodness there was Wifi) quickly showing the names of the two fathers listed. Shortly after this proof and explanation, the two officers, who were somewhat pleasant and did not know what to do with my situation. After my enjoyment of the moment and opportunity, they effortlessly let us though. This entry into the country was with instruction though - to have a letter next time from the other parent saying it was okay to travel with the children. I was sure this request had nothing to do with the two dads concept. Culturally, it is unusual to travel as one parent with children.

During this exchange I was able to relax into the moment, not feel panicked or anxious about not getting into the country. In fact, this was the beginning of our experience of Namibia and we had time to meet any difficulty with ease. I was interested and curious about this dialogue.

Outside of immigration and customs the three of us were met by our smiling, shining friend Marita who has been living in Namibia off and on for over 10 years teaching at the Namibia Waldorf School. She told me this scenario at immigration happened with her friend who was also traveling alone with her son, but Marita’s friend was not so lucky as I. She had to get a letter sent to immigration while she sat in the waiting area with her son. Maybe it was the fluorite necklace we were wearing that got us through or the obscurity of the gay dad thing?

Oliver and Adelaide were not only met with a familiar face that we haven’t seen in over 3 years, but with the modern conveniences of cafés, paved roads and cars as we exited the airport. Oliver, especially, was expecting the locals to be riding around town on elephants, dusty dirt roads and shelters made of corrugated aluminum everywhere. To his surprise as we left the airport and drove into the city of Windhoek we were met with car dealerships, hotels and shopping malls. Our first stop in Africa was actually a mall. Marita needed to get her iPhone fixed at the iPhone store. Not my choice of a day one experience, however I do think my son felt a sense of comfort to know that he was in a place that he could relate. This will soon change as we head north deep into Namibia, far from a café.

Shortly after passing all through the modern city of Windhoek, we drove into the mountains and countryside to Krumhuk, a lovely biodynamic farm founded in the early 20th century. We are staying in the a mud-bricked guesthouse, Villa Perli, for 2 nights before we start our 3-week journey from the savanna to the North. Tonight, our second night on Krumhuk, was met with a rainstorm that brought a full arch rainbow that hovered over the mountains for almost 2 hours as we sat together playing cards. The land and sky is here is extraordinary, capturing all the senses. The cool breeze under the fierce sun, the layers of at least a dozen birds’ singing throughout the thousands of acres of the farm and the encroaching thunderstorm has been mesmerizing on our first full day in Africa.

Tomorrow we pick up our Toyota Hilux outfitted with two rooftop tents and everything else one might need being alone in the middle of Namibia in the summer.  The North will be filled with wild animals and sleeping under the planetary illumination of cosmic eternity.